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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.